With all the buzz around Tudor’s latest Burgundy Black Bay 58 release at this year’s Watches & Wonders, we thought it was the perfect moment to shine a light on something we care deeply about here at Helicon—the art of the dial.
Because while Tudor’s new burgundy-coloured masterpiece is undeniably stunning, we’ve quietly been obsessing over dial colour, texture and finish since day one. It’s a passion that’s become a defining characteristic of our brand—and one that’s led us to create some truly unique, limited edition dials that our collectors have come to love.
The Heart Behind the Hue
Full credit here goes to my wife, Danielle. She’s not just the creative force behind our designs—she’s a true colour hunter. Constantly on the lookout for inspiration, she’s been known to scan anything and everything into her phone: flowers, fireplaces, even centuries-old books. Anything with an interesting hue or texture is fair game.
She’s designed every element of our dials, from the indices to the date wheel to the way the Swiss Super-LumiNova is applied. But it’s colour that captivates her most—finding just the right tone, just the right finish, and just the right way to bring it to life on a tiny piece of metal.
From Raw Steel to a Work of Art
Every Helicon dial begins as a wafer-thin steel disc, stamped precisely to our specifications. From there, each colour variant follows its own unique path depending on the desired effect.
Take the Lichen Green—now long sold out. It featured a soft, almost ethereal metallic finish that gave it a subtle glow in the light.
Then there’s the Ultramarine and Blue Hour dials, which use a hand-sprayed ombré technique. Each one is done individually, meaning no two are exactly the same—each dial is ever so slightly unique, a signature of handcraft.
The Iridium dial was inspired by the sunburst finish of a vintage electric guitar. We created that look by painting multiple hues while spinning the dial, allowing the colour to radiate out from the centre like a ripple in water.
And now, the Claret. While burgundy may be the flavour of the moment, we actually began working on our Claret dial back in 2018. We wanted to create a red with real character—something deeper and richer than a flat crimson. Ours isn’t a single shade, but a dial expertly brushed with wire to create a three-dimensional sunburst effect, then layered with multiple coats of paint ranging from black to deep red. The result? A finish with real depth—just like a fine glass of wine held up to the light.
It’s All in the Detail
Once the dial colour is perfected, we add polished, lumed indices—soldered in place by hand for accuracy and durability. We also carefully consider how the dial interacts with the crystal. All Helicon watches feature sapphire glass with an inner anti-reflective coating, so the original colour remains true in all kinds of light.
It’s this attention to detail, this commitment to doing things the right way—even if it takes longer or costs more—that we believe sets our watches apart.
A Rare Find
Every Helicon model is made in extremely limited numbers—just 50 pieces per colour, worldwide. That’s it. When they’re gone, they’re gone. The Lichen Green has already sold out, and others are heading that way too.
But more than just being rare, these watches are personal. They’re the result of our passion, our creativity, and countless hours of craft.
Ready to Discover Yours?
At Helicon, every dial tells a story—of inspiration, experimentation, and meticulous craftsmanship. From the ombré fade of the Ultramarine to the deep, wine-like Claret we began creating in 2018, Danielle’s obsession with colour and detail ensures each piece is both a technical and artistic achievement.
Explore the collection today and find the colour that speaks to you—before it’s gone.
