When it comes to watches, one of the most misunderstood areas is the watch’s 'movement'. As the heart of every timepiece, the movement is the engine that powers the watch, but consumers often overlook how brands choose, acquire, and prepare these movements.
At Helicon Watches, we want to shed some light on this crucial aspect of watchmaking.
How Watch Brands Choose Movements
If you’re a large brand like Rolex, Tudor, or Patek Philippe, you have generations of expertise, cutting-edge engineering teams, and significant financial resources.
This allows these companies to create their own in-house movements, specifically designed and manufactured for their collections.
For mid-level brands, there’s a balance. Many use in-house movements for their higher-end models, but they often rely on heavily modified versions of well-known movements like the ETA 7750 or Sellita SW500. They source reliable movements from manufacturers like Sellita, STP, Soprod, Miyota, or Seiko for more affordable models.
The Role of Movements in Microbrands
If you’re part of the microbrand community, as we are at Helicon Watches, sourcing movements is both an art and a science. We rely on established movement manufacturers like Sellita, STP, Soprod, Le Joux Perret, Miyota, and Seiko. But it’s not just about selecting a movement and dropping it into a watch case—there’s much more involved.
For instance, Swiss-made movements often come in different grades: base, mid, top, and chronometer. While the basic architecture remains the same across these grades, the differences come down to the time and care taken during assembly, testing, and regulation. Chronometer-grade movements are essentially top-grade movements that have gone through extra processes to meet strict accuracy standards. But keep in mind, more time spent on a movement means a higher price tag!
Should Movement Grade Matter to You?
One important point we’d like to stress: don’t get too caught up in the “grade” of your watch movement. We’re not talking about *bad vs. good*—all movement manufacturers know what they’re doing. Whether it’s Swiss or Japanese, a movement that beats between 20,000 to 30,000 times per hour and needs servicing every few years is a marvel of engineering.
In fact, Japanese movement manufacturers like Seiko don’t offer different grades. They provide one high standard across the board, ensuring reliable, precise movements in all of their watches. We’ve worked with Seiko for over a decade, and their support has always been exceptional.
The Importance of Relationships and Watchmaker Skill
Here’s something not everyone knows: if you’re a large company, you can source your movements directly from manufacturers by the thousand. But smaller brands often work with wholesalers, and building a trusted relationship is crucial. Watch movements need care and attention even before they’re placed into a case.
We’ve seen warranty issues arise due to improper storage of movements, where they needed to be fully serviced and reconditioned before assembly.
Ultimately, after decades of experience in the watch industry and selling tens of thousands of watches, we’ve learned that one of the most critical elements in creating a high-quality watch isn’t just the movement itself—it’s the skill of the watchmaker who assembles it. A great watchmaker can take a standard movement and create a flawless watch. Conversely, a poor watchmaker can take a top-grade movement and still produce an unsatisfactory timepiece.
Helicon Watches: Our Commitment to Quality
At Helicon Watches, we take pride in our direct relationship with Seiko. This relationship gives us access to the latest developments and insights, allowing us to ensure that our movements are of the highest quality. And with skilled watchmakers who have been in the industry since the 90s, we apply rigorous quality control to every watch. Before shipping, Danielle and I personally inspect every single piece to ensure it meets our high standards.
Conclusion
When you buy a watch, you’re not just purchasing a movement—you’re investing in the craftsmanship behind it. Whether it’s the expertise of the movement manufacturer or the skill of the watchmaker, each element plays a vital role in creating a timepiece you’ll love and wear for years to come.
We hope this blog has given you a deeper understanding of what goes into choosing and preparing a movement. If you have any questions or want to know more about watchmaking, feel free to reach out! And if you’re looking for your next timepiece, explore our latest collection at Helicon Watches.
